Flax
Lyneham has always been agricultural, with several
farms scattered around the hamlet all responsible for
working the land. In earlier times the land had belonged to
the priory at Bradenstoke-cum-Clack and together was the centre
for growing flax. Lyneham's name originated from this crop;
Linen is a material made from the fibers of the flax plant.
The village name started off as Linen Hamlet, the place where
flax is grown. The last syllable, ‘ham,’ means enclosure by
the river; the river Braydon.
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Linen
Today the word "linen" is descriptive of a
class of woven textiles used in homes as towels, sheets,
and tablecloths. In the past the word also referred
to lightweight undergarments like shirts, chemises,
waistshirts, lingerie, and detachable shirt collars
and cuffs. Modern linens are typically manufactured
of natural fibers like cotton, silk, modal, and (sometimes)
flax, as well as synthetic fibers including polyester,
rayon, etc.
Historically, linens were manufactured almost exclusively
of fibers from the flax plant ("linum usitatisimum")
Flax fiber is strong when both wet and dry, durable,
cool to the skin, and resistant to rotting in damp climates.
It is one of the few textiles that has a greater breaking
strength wet than dry. It has a long "staple"
(individual fiber length) relative to cotton and other
natural fibers. The fiber in its un-spun state is called
flax. After it is spun into yarn it becomes linen.
Flax is grown both for seed and for fibre. Various
parts of the plant has been used to make fabric, dye,
paper, medicines, fishing nets and soap. It is also
grown as an ornamental plant in gardens, as flax is
one of the few truly blue flowers (most "blue"
flowers are really shades of purple).
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Flax Seed
The seeds produce a vegetable oil known as linseed oil or
flaxseed oil. It is one of the oldest commercial oils and
solvent-processed flax seed oil has been used for centuries
as a drying oil in painting and varnishing. The seeds are
edible, and cold pressed linseed oil is suitable for human
consumption; it is one of the most concentrated plant sources
of the omega-3 alpha-linolenic acid, and its use as a nutritional
supplement is increasing. Brown and yellow flax have equal
amounts of omega-3 except for a type of yellow flax called
solin which is very low in omega-3 and has a completely different
oil profile.
Flax fibre
Flax fibres are amongst the oldest fibre crops in the world.
The use of flax for the production of linen goes back 5000
years. Pictures on tombs and temple walls at Thebes depict
flowering flax plants. The use of flax fibre in the manufacturing
of cloth in northern Europe dates back to pre-Roman times.
In North America, flax was introduced by the Pilgrim fathers.
Currently most flax produced in the USA and Canada are seed
flax types for the production of linseed oil or flaxseeds
for human nutrition.
Flax fibre is extracted from the bast or skin of the stem
of flax plant. Flax fibre is soft, lustrous and flexible.
It is stronger than cotton fibre but less elastic. The best
grades are used for linen fabrics such as damasks, lace and
sheeting. Coarser grades are used for the manufacturing of
twine and rope. Flax fibre is also a raw material for the
high-quality paper industry for the use of printed banknotes
and rolling paper for cigarettes.
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Cultivation
Flax is harvested for fibre production when still green,
before seed maturation as the fibre starts to degrade
later; it is pulled up with the roots (not cut), so
as to maximise the fibre length. Immediately after harvesting,
it is put in water to soak (retting) to rot off the
non-fibrous material in the stems. Retting takes 7-12
days, depending on temperature. Flax grown for seed
is allowed to mature until the seed capsules are yellow
and just starting to split; it is then harvested by
combine harvester and dried to extract the seed. |
Extracting Flax fibres
The process is divided into two parts: the first part is
intended for the farmer, or flax-grower, to bring the
flax into a fit state for use. In the early part of the
last century, before machinery was used on the farmlands,
workers had a difficult job cultivating the flax. With
machinery, this is performed by three machines: one for
threshing out the seed, one for breaking and separating
the wood from the fibre, and one for further separating
the broken wood and matter from the fibre. Generally most
of the early farmers thrashed out the seed in their own
mill and therefore, the first machine would be unnecessary.
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The second part of the process is intended
for the manufacturer to bring the flax into a state
for the very finest purposes, such as lace, cambric,
damask, and very fine linen. This second part is performed
by the refining machine only.
Take the flax in small bundles, as it comes from the
field or stack, and holding it in the left hand, put
the seed end between the threshing machine and the bed
or block against which the machine is to strike; then
take the handle of the machine in the right hand, and
move the machine backward and forward, to strike on
the flax, until the seed is all threshed out.
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Take the flax in small handfuls in the left hand, spread
it flat between the third and little finger, with the seed
end downwards, and the root-end above, as near the hand as
possible; then put it between the beater of the breaking machine,
and beat it gently till the three or four inches, which have
been under the operation of the machine, appear to be soft;
then remove the flax a little higher in the hand, so as to
let the soft part of the flax rest upon the little finger,
and continue to beat it till all is soft, and the wood is
separated from the fibre, keeping the left hand close to the
block and the flax as flat upon the block as possible. The
other end of the flax is then to be turned, and the end which
has been beaten is to be wrapped round the little finger,
the root end flat, and beaten in the machine till the wood
is separated, exactly in the same way as the other end was
beaten.
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Weeding
Flax
The wives of poor farmworkers and wives of day labourers
who often came for a starvation wage to weed flax fields.
The 1887 painting by Emile Claus to the left shows something
about the life of women around the turn of the 19th
century. Notice how they all had removed their wooden
shoes to avoid damaging the flax. Also, if possible
they were put to work with the wind at their backs do
that the flax plants they had been pressed down would
be blown back to stand upright. The farmer's wife stood
ready with a basket to collect the weeds removed. |
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